Schramberg Fastnacht Boat Race and Parade
Coming down from the highs of the winter holidays can leave you a bit gloomy. For a month we toasted gluhwein mugs at Christmas markets, had a long Christmas week, then a week later lit up the skies with wild fireworks. Luckily if you get can through the dull January, in Germany you can look forward to the very colorful and boisterous Fasching!
Living in the States the only pre-lent celebrations I have been to was Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Then moving to Wiesbaden I learned about dressing like cowboys, clowns, animals and other silly costumes while catching candy from vibrant parade floats. However, going to celebrate in Schramberg, Germany was a totally different and awesome experience!
Schramberg is in the Swabian-Alemannic area of Germany and they call this celebration, Fastnacht. This word comes from the old German word ‘fasen’ which means to me be foolish, wild or silly.
Our day started early and we were on the road in the early hours so we were there for the beginning of the festivities. We arrived and there was plenty of parking around the outskirts of the old town. The old town is blocked off by barriers and also tables where you have to pay a small fee to enter. We walked around and to my surprise we learned about the first event of the Fastnacht!
The event is called ‘Da-Bach-Na-Fahrt’ and participants build their own rafts for a hysterical but highly competitive boat race! Each year they have 40 decorated rafts that strive to make the 500 meter river course. The rafts are all on display first thing in the morning and everyone walks around checking them out. We saw so many cleaver creations from Star Wars to Barbie to Never-ending Story! You can tell so much time and work has gone into making floats.
The race was about to start and all of the floats made their way up the river. The river was packed with people ready to watch the race. You were lucky to get a spot where you could see the river.
Then they were off! We stood right at an area after a small waterfall so they zipped passed us! Sometimes they didn’t make the rough waters after the small decline, and the floats fell apart. Burr! It was cold enough out and that water must have been freezing for them!
The race went on for quite a while so I went and got some yummy funnel cake at a vendor’s stand.
Right after the boat races, we went to find a spot to stand to watch the parade. As a seasoned veteran of going to the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade every year growing up, I know the best spot to find is in front of a tree or a sign post so nobody can push up on you from behind when the parade starts.
The parade started out like any other parade with floats, confetti and bands.
Then in group after group came the traditional Swabian-Alemannic Fastnacht wooden masks!
They were very interactive with the crowd and you had to work for your candy most of the time. People were yelling “Hexe!” (Witch) at them and they would come over and get right in your face as you keep screaming at them.
Groups of the masked witches were very mischievous and they would go up to teenagers and tie their shoe laces together or they would steal their hats. They would also grab teenage girls and throw them in their jail on wheels, which also spun around and then let them out a few minutes down the parade route.
The cats would come by and rub their fur wands on you, then give you a piece of bread out of their baskets. (That last sentence sounds like something right out of Alice in Wonderland.)
Kids got a lot of attention and candy given directly to them, rather than thrown at you in other parades. My daughter didn’t know what to make of the scary mask, but she liked the candy offer.
The most mischievous group came at the end and they looked like black devils. They left the parade route, one sat on the food vendor’s roof and one actually went into someone’s house on the second floor!
We had an incredible time and I will never forget the fun way the Swabian-Alemannic celebrate Fastnacht!
This year the boat races and parade is on 7 February 2016!!
Author’s Profile: Gemma is a mom, a veteran and an Army civilian living in Wiesbaden, Germany. With New Jersey roots, she is enjoying her extended European vacation.
Visiting the Mermaid of Lorelei
Driving along the picturesque winding road up the Rhine River is an unforgettable experience. River boats to your left, historic towns to your right and high above are several beautiful castles along the way.
Lorelei is a legendary mermaid who was brought to life in a ballad in 1801 by German author Clemens Brentano, then later adapted by Heinrich Heine’s poem, ‘Die Lorelei’. The story describes Lorelei as a siren sitting on the cliff looking over the Rhine, combing her golden hair while distracting the shipmen with her beauty and song and then causing the ships to crash on the rocks on this treacherous bend in the Rhine. Today, you can visit a statue of the mythical siren which is located at the end of a jetty, which makes for a very nice walk.
(Photo from Wikipedia)
Other famous sirens that Lorelei makes me think about are the sirens in the book The Odyssey by Homer, calling shipmen to crash into the rocks.
Or the modern twist on Homer’s Odyssey in the movie ‘O Brother, Where Art Thou?’.
This time my journey to discover Lorelei is not along the banks of the river, but rather high above looking down like a siren myself.
I’ve always visited Lorelei at her statue or just driving by on a scenic drive so this was all new to me and what a treat it was! On top of the Lorelei rock there is a lookout area with everything you could possible want for a great experience. They have telescopes and seats along the lookout for you to really take in all of its’ beauty.
There is also a rock carved into a chair, which I later realized its’ use and called it the ‘selfie-chair’.
Romantic couples that want to leave a piece of their love in Lorelei can bring a lock and attach it to the fence to symbolize their strong long-lasting love for each other.
The lookout allows you to get a perfect 180-degree view of the river and see the sharp bends the boats must overtake. During the time of the Lorelei myth, there was much more rock from the mountain sticking out in the river, which later was blasted away to make less of a sharp turn.
They view is spectacular and I really loved watching the boats going up and down the Rhine from such a height.
In the lookout area there is a restaurant that is open in the spring and summer. I will surely come back when the sun is shining and have lunch outside looking at the Rhine Valley.
Directly below the lookout point but on the other side of the river is a restaurant and gift shop that is popular for tour buses, but you can find some nice Lorelei mermaid memorabilia.
This area is great for hikes, they have an open area concert venue and also a summer toboggan!
I loved my day visiting the mermaid of Lorelei and I guess you can say this siren called me in with her captivating beauty!
Address:
Auf der Loreley
56348 Bornich
Author’s Profile: Gemma is a mom, a veteran and an Army civilian living in Wiesbaden, Germany. With New Jersey roots, she is enjoying her extended European vacation.
Freudenberg Castle (Schloss Freudenberg): Museum of the Senses
The museum in the Freudenberg Castle (Schloss Freudenberg) is an unforgettable experience exploring the wonders of senses and the mind.
The building of Schloss Freudenberg is rich with Wiesbaden history. The castle is an early 20th-century villa restored into what we know it now as an amazing ‘Museum of the Sense’ since 1993. It isn’t the typical castle we are used to see in Germany, but it was built as a villa for residents by the architect Paul Schultze-Naumburg. During World War I it became an Officers Club for the French Army. Around 1920 the city acquired the castle and then closed it in 1931. In 1939 it was sold to the US Army Garrison Wiesbaden and it was the Rod and Gun Club for the US Military personnel. From 1977 the castle was turned over to the United Pentecostal Church, but after leaving in 1984 the castle fell into disrepair due to vandalism and fire.
In 1993, thanks to the Society of Nature and Art, the castle was restored to as we know it today. This group of artists and educators vision was to develop the senses and the mind through art and culture. Some describe the caste as a laboratory where you can experiment and be involved.
I agree with that description, because walking into the castle was like walking into another world where you can touch, explore and connect with your senses. I have been to science museums in the States and the difference is that this one is more homemade and has the ‘think outside of the box’ mentality.
The very funky and fun Wiesbaden Folklore Festival held in the summer, started here at Schloss Freudenberg in the 90s. Due to popularity, it moved to the Wiesbaden Schlachthof in 2007.
There is so much to do before you go inside the castle on their beautiful park grounds. There are hands-on stations, an amazing playground, climbing wall and a barefoot path. First station we stopped at you are able to paint a special wish on the wishing stone.
Then to explore and give a great lesson to children about the power of the sun, there was a magnifying glass that actually burns the wood!
Around the corner there is a huge playground area with balance games, stilts, swings and climbing logs. (Note to self, stilts are much harder than they look!)
So I embarrassed myself enough with the stilts so it is time to go inside. When you first walk into the castle you feel and see curious minds of all ages walking around. Children were making their own candles, adults were playing with chimes and we were making waves from the friction from our hands. This was all happening in one room!
Also on the first floor was the café and gift shop. The café served delicious homemade treats and coffee. The café had unique charm with fake (hopefully) giant ants coming out from a corner on the ceiling.
I absolutely loved the gift shop and I bought some very cool items there for good prices. You can touch and try out each instrument, puzzle or gemstone.
The top floors had so many amazing stations to explore and be creative. There were pendulums used in so many creative ways.
Also upstairs we exercised our olfactory memory. We covered up the cards and tested if we were able to recognize the scent. We did pretty well and I was surprised how uncanny the scents were! Some of the scents will trigger a memory, just like when you smell a certain perfume and are immediately reminded of someone you know now or from your past.
Downstairs it got darker and we were able to explore more experiments with light and dark. With light, we played with shadows and for the dark experience they actually have a dark bar! You enter a completely blacked out hallway and enter the “Dunkel Bar” (Dark Bar) as if you are blind. Here you can order drinks and food. They even allow you to book it for groups, team events or readings. (I would enjoy a work meeting in there, because then no one can see me nodding off!)
Sorry no image of the Dark Bar... just close your eyes. ;)
There were more stations about touching and vibrations. To me it was also a trust exercise, but you put your hands in the clay pots and try to guess what it is. I think I have seen too many episodes of Fear Factor and I was a little reluctant putting my hand in it, but it was fine.
Near that station there was room filled with sand a couple of metal circles on poles. You stroke the bow to make a note which then make designs from the sound waves.
Then the grand finale of our visit to Schloss Freudenberg was going into the ice room. For my 4-year-old, we were going into the Elsa room! In this chilly -22°C room, you are given a class on their experiments and the cold in general. They have a snowflake garden that you can look at magnified and also an ice creation where they place only 1 drop of water on each day. The briefer didn’t wear a coat; “The cold never bothered her anyway”.
Address: Freudenbergstraße 224-226, 65201 Wiesbaden, Germany
Entry Price:
There are 3 different entry prices per category. You are allowed to choose how much you want to/ are able to pay from those 3 options! Year passes are also available.
Family (2 EW, 2 K) € 37,— € 42,— € 50,—
Adult € 14,— € 15,— € 16,—
Student € 9,— € 10,— € 11,—
Child 3 — 6 years € 5,— € 6,— € 7,—
The cold room is also good for cuddles! :)
Author’s Profile: Gemma is a mom, a veteran and an Army civilian living in Wiesbaden, Germany. With New Jersey roots, she is enjoying her extended European vacation.
